I know what you're thinking. You're sitting there saying to yourself, "When the heck are they gonna actually get somewhere?" I know this, because, at the time, we were saying the exact same thing. Actually, as we neared the Arkansas/Tennessee border, what we were saying was something a little more like this:
"OHMYGODWE'REFINALLYHEREICAN'TBELIEVEIT!"
Hitting the Tennessee state line meant something else: crossing the mighty Mississippi. According to Wikipedia, there are four bridges spanning the Mississippi River at Memphis. Two are railroad bridges, so we're not going to talk about them. The remaining two are Hernando de Soto Bridge and the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge. The Hernando de Soto Bridge (or "New Bridge") was opened in 1973 and name in honor of the 16th century Spaniard who explored this region of the Mississppi River. It is a through arch bridge, and if you're entering Memphis on I-40, this is the bridge you'll use.
We crossed the Mississippi driving down I-55, which meant we crossed on the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge, a historic bridge that is over sixty years old. It was built in 1949, and Memphians call it the "Old Bridge," to distinguish it from the Hernando de Soto Bridge. A cantilevered through truss bridge, it is 770 feet long and clears the river by 112 feet. And it has narrow lanes too, so if bridges are already kind of scary for you, bypassing this one might be a good idea. Especially when the roads are slick from rain.
It is actually a beautifully-constructed bridge, and the architecture can definitely worth taking a few minutes to admire.
Crossing that bridge brought us a little closer to our goal of that nice, soft bed that was waiting for us in the City of Memphis. Memphis was founded in 1819 and named after the capital of ancient Egypt. As you might expect, Memphis quickly became a transportation hub, and today is the second-busiest cargo port on the River, and fourth-busiest inland port in the U.S. Memphis is home to over 670,000 people, making it the largest city in Tennessee. It is also home to a lot of good music and a lot of good barbecue.
Now, being from Texas, the only place to get real barbecue, we can be rather picky about our slow-smoked meats. But I knew that I wanted to try some real Memphis barbecue before we left, and since we were leaving in the morning, we were having bbq for dinner!
After checking into the hotel, which was surrounded by a tall steel fence that held warning signs that the parking lot was covered with survellience cameras, we discovered that Neely's BBQ was just a couple of miles away. So we dropped our luggage in the room and climbed into the car again.
If you have never been to Memphis, let me give you this advice. Do your homework, stay in a nice area of town, and don't go out after dark. It's a scary-looking place. But it was still light out when we went in search of barbecue, and thanks to our handy-dandy-GPS, we found it pretty easily.
If you have never been to Memphis, let me give you this advice. Do your homework, stay in a nice area of town, and don't go out after dark. It's a scary-looking place. But it was still light out when we went in search of barbecue, and thanks to our handy-dandy-GPS, we found it pretty easily.
Those of you unfamiliar with the Food Network will have no idea why I was a little excited to eat here. The Neely's have their own show on the Food Network, and this BBQ is what kind of made them famous. If you walk into this restaurant without any of this knowledge, you will be educated soon after entering. Huge four-foot banners with the Neely's picture and the Food Network logo hang throughout the restaurant, and the walls are adorned with pictures of the Neelys with other Food Network stars.
The decor was typical BBQ restaurant fare. Checkered table cloths, wood floor, booths and tables, all well-worn. The service was...well, it left much to be desired, as our waiter, who couldn't have been older than nineteen, spent most of his time hanging out in the kitchen. I think the cook must have been a really cute girl that he wanted to date. But the food was A+. We each had the sliced beef sandwich, and the beef was lean and cut thick. The sauce was a little thin for my taste, but overall, it tasted a whole lot like Texas barbecue. The cole slaw had a unique taste, a little sweet, with a little sour, and we thought that the "secret ingredient" might be honey mustard.
Something we saw on the menu that we learned was unique to Memphis was spaghetti BBQ, which is just spaghetti covered with barbecue sauce and smoked meat instead of pasta sauce. We didn't try it, but maybe next time.
After a long day on the road, the first leg of our trip was completed. Next up, central Tennessee!